Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the capital's vibrant 1990s creative scene, moving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"That time was the height of the Britart scene – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be great friends. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is difficult to overlook: the growth of nationalist groups, the pushback against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. In place of the hope of the Blair era, today a different political personality stands as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the solution has long been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, including a wide range of prominent faces from politics.

"Those in a position of influence should employ it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I trust this period will pass."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse implicit prejudice – I didn't even know what that was."

The beginnings of his career would shape a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Critically, sales grew.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since departing his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "change-maker".

"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … all that gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

Contrary to the stereotype of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His life has involved challenges, including well-documented struggles with mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

Curating a Cultural Era

This drive to be typecast has propelled him beyond the world that made his name. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who did not receive adequate attention at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to celebrate the right artists because they lacked the expected background," he comments.

This venture itself uses a novel strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "We ask, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a broader vision."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful industry leaders. His journey, he feels, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the younger Edward react to the man he has become? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve set my intention to do something."