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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.